Friday, May 11, 2012

STR8 HAIR...getting it right


If you are straightening your hair regularly (and a lot of us are), I absoluuuutely recommend that you invest in a high-end straightener/flat iron.  When it comes to flat irons, you get what you pay for.


A few things I would highly suggest:
  • NOT purchasing your hair straightener at a place like CVS, Target, Walmart, etc.
  • Plates smaller than 2" (bigger is not better, even if you have long hair): Once you start getting into 2" plates it's hard to get to the roots and maintain adequate pressure for optimal straightness
  • Floating plates: These are plates that depress based on how much hair you have in between the plates.  This allows even sufficient pressure for straightening.
  • Wrap around plates: This means your plates have a curved edge around the back of the iron itself...this is great for using your straightener as a curling iron.
  • Ceramic plates: Tourmaline, Sapphire or Titanium.  These provide even, less damaging heat.Adjustable temperature:  Different hair types require different temperature, your hair should not be SMOKING.
  • NEVER EVER use a straightener on wet hair and I do NOT recommend steam-based irons that suggest it's ok to straighten wet hair...even my own straightener says damp to dry straightening is ok, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
  • Using a hair straightening serum, spray, protectant...SOMETHING...ANYTHING!  Your hair is not meant to be crushed into compliance on a daily basis, you need to protect it.
I use the Solia Tourmaline Ceramic Ion Flat Iron with 1 1/4" plates.  This is one of FOLICA'S TOP 10 FLAT IRONS.  Uh also, Folica is the SHIT.  I get all of my styling tools from this site, you get freebies with your orders and they have sales all the time!

Anyway, the Solia straightener has wrap around floating plates, amazeballs...looks like this:


Some straighteners have a combed edge so that it combs your hair first and the iron flattens behind it.  While I have tried and don't like this type of straightener, it does teach us one thing and that is proper straightening technique.  You should not be taking giant chunks of hair and squeeze and pull it into compliance, you should not be twisting your hair, and you should definitely not feel pulling, ripping, or snagging of any kind.  Smooth plates with proper technique should have a silky smooth slide (anyone turned on? or just me? ok then).

THIS is what proper hair straightening technique looks like:


OK, so now you're thinking, how the hell am I gonna do that to myself?  It's not as hard as you'd think.  I typically do what I call a "rough straighten" and then use this comb technique to achieve that final smoothness.  You want to make sure you are using small, smooth, flat sections if you want all your hard frizz-free work to last.

Humidity is the devil, we all know it...but proper technique with a good iron and quality smoothing product helps immensely when it comes to a straight look that lasts.

As far as products, I hear a lot of concerns that certain products weigh hair down or make it look greasy, or that it doesn't look any different whether a product is used or not...trust me, you want to find a product that works for you.

Quick Tip: Thinner/lighter products (i.e. sprays and thinner serums) are better for thin, fine, or limp hair or for those that just want more volume and thicker serums or balms/creams are best for thick, resistant, or super curly hair.

Speaking of products, there are a few that I really like:

Aquage SeaExtend Silkening Oil Treatment and Beyond Shine Spray - These are salon/professional grade products.  The oil treatment works as a fairly light straightening serum and the spray is a finishing spray that I use all over before I do one final run through with my straightener.  The spray smooths any flyaways and really locks in that final sleek look.  For those with thin hair the spray could be used alone as a super light smoothing product.

Beyond the Zone Straight Shot Serum - I was unaware that this was a pro-product because I bought it on a whim at CVS.  First of all, it smells AMAZING and I use it as body oil too since it was cheap!  I tried the balm and didn't like it it made it feel like I had put hairspray in my hair and brushed it out, you know that dry but still kinda sticky feeling.

Chi Silk Infusion and Biosilk are the 2 serums that really paved the way for other products.  You can get these anywhere, they really are the originals in my opinion.  These run on the thicker/greasier side so you really only need the tiniest amount.

Quick Tip: If your hair isn't super curly and you want to avoid the greaseball look, DO NOT apply product from root to tip, start about midway down through the ends

Tresemme, in my opinion, is one of the best and most underrated drugstore hair care brands.  They have an entire line of smoothing products, my personal favorite is Smooth Salon Silk No Frizz Serum.

I feel like, in general, SERUMS are the way to go...not too heavy, not too light.

Here's something you probably didn't know.  Salon brands (such as Chi, Biosilk, Biolage, Paul Mitchell, Nexus, Alterna, Tigi, etc.)...if you are not buying them from an authorized salon product distributor, you are not guaranteed the same formula.  Biosilk from a salon/pro-store is much thicker than what you'll buy at CVS.  It's almost like name brand v. generic.  FACT!  Don't waste your millions on salon or pro-brands at discount stores.

What about smoothing shampoo/conditioner?  All I can tell you is that, yes, they work.  However, some are better than others.  I have tried a few that leave my hair feeling like it's riddled with buildup.  My absolute favorites are the following:

Tigi Catwalk Sleek Mistique Glossing Shampoo and Calming Conditioner - This is a professional series that smells amazing.  I literally bought it based solely on smell!  Turned out to be a great product...I use this when I REALLY want my hair to be pin straight and last...or when satan turns Maryland into the Everglades.

and...wait for iiiiiiit

PANTENE, hey, at least it's not PERT PLUS...no but seriously I love Pantene, if angels had morning breath, it would smell like Pantene.  They have a Straightening Shampoo/Conditioner and a Smoothing Shampoo/Conditioner.  The only difference I noticed was that the smoothing one was a little less intense, it left my hair a little more voluminous on a day to day basis.

Don't be afraid to try products...you're not always going to find the best product for you the first time.  Take it to the extremes, if you buy a spray and hate it, try a balm...if you hate that too, serum is right down the middle and probably perfect for you!



3 comments:

  1. I use and LOVE the Instyler Rotating Iron. I have horrible frizzy curly hair and this thing is the ONLY straighter i have ever had that works!! And since is a round shape, I can curl the edges under without pluging in a second appliance. For some reason it seems to nip away my frizz too and give it a shine. It is BETTER when i use a prodcut in my hair (will look into the ones you suggested) but i can get away with just tool and it still looks great and feeeellls great!! I swear by it! I just got my mom one for Mother's day since she does her hair everyday! (wish i had the time, I usually just pony/bun it nowadays!)

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  2. This is awesome, I actually recently purchased Instyler as well and am still learning how to use it properly. If you have any hair volume building techniques, would love to read a blog post on it :)

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  3. My mom and sister both have the Instyler as well and I know my mom loves it! I couldn't get into it and it's totally about getting used to the technique. I've been using a traditional straightener for years and that works for me so I found the Instyler awkward to work with. Now that I have short hair and like the added volume, I find that blow drying it with a large round ceramic ion brush FIRST helps me get the volume I like. Volumizing products I despise because they really work by adding gunk to your hair to fluff it up...it makes it feel gross!

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